The Grey Ghost Strikes Back

On the 16th of February, 2011 early in the morning we received a call from Mr. Tsewang Norboo of Ulley, in the Sham Valley of Ladakh. We reckoned from his voice something was wrong. With a gloomy tone, he finally spoke the words “the Shan has killed my 3 year old Dzo!” Dzo is a cattle breed found extensively found as livestock option in Ladakh. Norboo, was keen to collect the meat which he could sell and make some money of it. The team at SLC-IT suggested that since the Shan (Snow Leopard) was hungry, he would only end up killing another livestock, it was best to let the Snow Leopard have the kill. Since, the inspection was required of the kill, and the telephonic conversations weren’t really effective in comforting the loss, the SLC-IT team immediately left for the village of Ulley, which is a 3 hours drive from Leh.

The team reached around noon, to see Norboo, who was extremely disturbed by the event. Unfortunately, this was his second loss within a period of 15 days. He previously lost a Demo, which cost Rs. 7000/- and this Dzo, which cost Rs.10000/-. The SLC-IT team along with Norboo went to the spot to see the Snow Leopard.

The charismatic animal was only about 120 meters away. The team got a very good view of the animal from the hideout set up by Norboo. It was indeed exhilarating that the team got to see the Grey Ghost, which is rarely sighted, for more than an hour! The Snow Leopard seemed to be enjoying the kill. She was very relaxed and was not intimidated by human presence. Her hypnotizing eyes never left the sight of the carcass, though on some occasions, she would walk up to the hill to digest the food and swiftly come back to continue with her feast. She guarded her meal from black billed magpies, red fox, yellow billed choughs and other vultures. She was in no mood to share her food.

Since, there was a tour group expected to come to Ulley the following day, the team managed to convince Norboo not to collect the rest of the meat. This would have been an ideal site for the tourists, who were on a winter trip to see the elusive cat. To make it a win-win situation, the travel company would compensate Norboo for abandoning the meat.

With Norboo’s consent, Jigmet from SLC-IT met with the travel agent the same evening and to talk about Snow Leopard in Ulley and Norboo’s loss. Mr. Angchok’s tour company agreed to send the tourists to Ulley the following morning. Since, the Snow Leopard was still guarding its meal; the tourists for the first time were able to see the Grey Ghost! As much as the tourists rejoiced the site from just over 120 meters, the Snow Leopard was rejoicing its meat, making it a once in a lifetime sight.

The tourists were extremely happy at the same time, empathized with Norboo’s loss. They gave Norboo Rs.2000/- as a gesture of goodwill. And as agreed upon, Mr. Angchok Sonam will be paying Rs.10000/- to Norboo.
SLC-IT implemented a pilot program for livestock insurance in 2009, where 80% compensation was given to two families, who had lost a Dzo and Yak to the Snow Leopard. SLC-IT will be implementing another Community based Livestock Insurance Program (CLIP) this year, where large bodied livestock of 2 to 5 years will be insured. With minimal premium to be paid by the families, the initial investments will be made from SLC-US and community conservation fund. SLC-IT hopes that the losses in this winter would encourage more families to participate in the program.

On the positive note, Norboo was eager to receive more tourists in winter to see the Snow Leopards in Ulley. Though, he lost his valuable livestock to the Grey Ghost, he saw only in it, the Spirit of the Ladakh Himalayas.

The SLC-IT Team.